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    Why China Should Be Your Next Wine Destination

    www.cntraveler.com by MARK ELLWOOD17/09/2018  

    Twelve years ago, Marc Curtis started a business with the unlikeliest of propositions: bring tourists to China to try its wine. 鈥淲hen I first started, I would speak to groups in the U.S. and the first question was, 鈥榃ait, there鈥檚 wine in China?鈥?and the second one was, 鈥楲eaded or unleaded?鈥欌?says the owner of the aptly named China Wine Tours.

    Today, Chinese wine is booming. The Communist government toned down its anti-business rhetoric, which has helped encourage small winemaking businesses, while the new, wealthier middle class has emerged as an eager market. Local production, too, has ramped up in both quantity and quality: In 2015, China overtook France as the second-largest wine grower in the world by vineyard area, with a landmass around the size of Puerto Rico under vine. It鈥檚 the world's fifth-biggest consumer of wine overall by volume, per the International Wine & Spirit Research (IWSR), and the world's top consumer of reds, besting heavyweights France and Italy, per Vinexpo.

    There are six major grape-growing regions in China, though only three are really primed for visitors: Shandong and Shaanxi provinces, and the autonomous Ningxia region. Among the others, keep an eye on Yunnan, where French conglomerate LVMH has invested heavily in a high-end, high-altitude vineyard near Shangri-La at the Himalayan foothills (pictured). Via the vineyards bolted to the steep slopes, it鈥檚 producing the impressive, just-released Ao Yun, a blend of cabernet sauvignon and cabernet franc. (The winery, unfortunately, isn鈥檛 yet prepped for visitors and, even so, a journey there involves several hours鈥?bumpy drive on dirt roads.)

    Curious to sample China鈥檚 own vintages in situ? Here鈥檚 a primer to help with planning.


    Jade Valley Resort & Winery owner Qingyun Ma was once dean of architecture
    at the University of Southern California.

    Shaanxi

    Most visitors come to this province to view nearly 10,000 terracotta warriors and horses dating back to the reign of Emperor Xin in the third century BC; to see them, the best base is Xi鈥檃n鈥攁nd the handiest hotel is the Sofitel Legend People鈥檚 Grand. Recently, though, the wineries have become a common second stop after the chance to eyeball those armies.

    The most famous vineyard here, Grace Vineyard, is also one of the oldest modern operations. First founded in 1997 by a businessman, the vineyard was passed on to the owner's ambitious daughter, Judy, when she was just 24. Today, the vineyard produces everything from cabernet sauvignon to chenin blanc on the 500-acre site. (There are also clean鈥攊f basic鈥攔ooms should you want to stay overnight.)

    Chateau Reina is a startling sight, as if a medieval Tuscan castle had been moved, wholesale, to the Chinese countryside. Instead, it鈥檚 a tribute to the Italian businessman Augusto Reina, whose Illva conglomerate has heavily invested here in partnership with wine production company Changyu (Illva best known worldwide as maker of Disaronno liqueur). Changyu operates the vineyard day to day, but Illva has provided technology and know-how. There鈥檚 a museum inside that details the history of winemaking in China, plus well-equipped tasting rooms; you can also snap a selfie with the cartoonish sculpture of grapes on its main lawn.

    China Wine Tours鈥?Curtis is particularly fond of Jade Valley winery here. It鈥檚 architecturally stunning鈥攏o wonder, given that owner Qingyun Ma was once dean of architecture at the University of Southern California. 鈥淗e has created such an experience there鈥攊t鈥檚 a wonderful place to go and experience Chinese culture, along with the wine, especially when they鈥檙e hosting a good and wine pairing dinner,鈥?says Curtis, who can arrange seats for clients at those dinners.

    Shandong

    The closest region to Beijing, on the coast just across from North Korea, this area attracts visitors for the all-round experience, rather than its standalone vintages. 鈥淪handong was the birthplace of commercial wine in China, but that doesn鈥檛 mean it鈥檚 the best place to go,鈥?says Steckenborn of the area, which is home to more than 140 wineries. It鈥檚 the biggest producer of wine in China, and sits on the same latitude as Bordeaux; unlike France, though, it struggles with rain. The true lure here isn鈥檛 the vintages, but the chance to see theatrically designed wineries where no expense is spared: think Scottish castles, French chateaux, and Bavarian follies.

    Later this year, though, Shandong will welcome a new facility, one which is likely to earn it accolades from oenophile snobs: Wine City. It鈥檚 a project by the aforementioned Changyu, China鈥檚 oldest wine company and the largest winemaker by sales, which has cost a staggering six billion yuan (around $895 million). It combines air hangar-like production facilities with more of those Epcot-like castles and a tall, wine glass-shaped research tower topped with a bar that will serve top-tier domestic wines. After several delays, it鈥檚 currently earmarked to open by the end of this year.

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