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Meet The Producers Who Are Redefining Chinese Wine

hk.asiatatler.com by Sarah Heller MW19/02/2021  

As the landscape of Chinese wines has expanded considerably over the last decade, it鈥檚 time to meet the ambitious vintners who are defining the taste of a nation

Writing concisely about Chinese wine is much like trying to write about China itself鈥攁 task for the foolhardy. This wouldn鈥檛 have been the case a mere decade ago, when producers worth mentioning might have been counted on two hands (and perhaps a foot). The 2009 book The Vineyards of Greater China by Houghton Lee featured a mere 14 producers. However, every passing year makes the topic less appropriate for an article than a tome.

Today, about 450 wineries span the Chinese landscape in 12 regions, from lush plateau to blazing desert. This is not to say that the story of Chinese wine has been an unbridled success, as profitability has remained elusive for many wineries. Production has actually dropped in China every year since 2015, when it hit a peak of 1 billion litres, to 450 million litres in 2019. However, what seems to have accompanied this drastic drop is a substantial hike in quality. Still, much is yet to be determined: a signature grape or style; whether to focus on quality, volume or national distinctiveness; whether to court domestic consumers alone or strive for plaudits overseas.

Thus, attempting to create a 鈥渂est of鈥?list鈥攎y original goal for this piece鈥攆elt like an act of hubris. Instead, I chose to highlight a handful of wineries from across the nation to deliver something of
a snapshot of where the Chinese wine industry is heading today. Their stories are about origins, the 鈥渨hy鈥?of each extraordinary person or group that embarked on an undertaking to make wine, and also how they are achieving their next set of goals.

Ao Yun


Xiao Pu Light Orange 2020

Ningxia

In a tale resembling those of California鈥檚 garagistes and Australia鈥檚 weekend wine warriors, 31-year-old former Amazon China wine buyer Ian Dai started his brand Xiao Pu in 2017 with his girlfriend, another couple and a small investment from a friend. Lacking the capital he says it would take to invest in a physical winery, Dai鈥檚 peregrinations have seen him make wine in a different facility every year, and even sent him to Yunnan鈥檚 Shangri-La for a trial batch. 

Dai says his motivation for starting was the dearth of appealing domestic options at the time: 鈥淚 wanted to make something I wanted to drink.鈥?Not only was quality modest, but the Bordeaux style of most Chinese wines didn鈥檛 inspire him. He was attracted to lower extraction, natural wines, orange wines, P茅t-Nat (P茅tillant Natural, an ancient sparkling wine technique where dead yeast cells aren't removed from the bottle) and other novelties. As one can imagine, the audience for such wines is generally of Dai's age or younger, but natural wine is gaining broader appeal across China. 

Dai's plan is to build his brand, then a physical winery and finally plant a vineyard. Is he ambitious? "I want to make the best Chinese wine, meaning: best terroir, highest rating, most expensive."

Xiao Pu Naked 2019

This 12.5 per cent alcohol red immediately entices with its dewy, carbonic red-berry fruit. The prettiness continues on the palate, which is like eating raspberries in a rose bush. The acidity is moderate and tannins virtually absent but for a washed, silky dustiness on the finish.

Xiao Pu Light Orange 2020
This light orange wine brings together chardonnay, riesling and petit manseng in a cloudy concoction that initially gives off hints of apricot and quince jelly and soft, cottony florals. On the palate it鈥檚 more brothy, with a miso-like savouriness, moderate acidity and a loose, powdery texture.

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